How To Finish A Wood Table

In this video I show you MY process for mixing polyurethane and Filming it onto your dining table top or furniture piece. So I stripped the whole thing down to the raw wood and worked hard to find a way to give the table a durable finish while still keeping the mostly natural wood look.

Refinishing A Table How I Brought My Beat Up End Table Back To Life Driven By Decor

Allow the stain to soak into the wood for at least 10 minutes.

How to finish a wood table. Once the finish is smooth wipe off the oil with a clean cloth. I knew I wanted a casual raw wood look to bring the more elegant lines of the table into the more casual feel of our ranch kitchen and dining room. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such as 120 sandpaper and finish the final sanding with a fine grit sandpaper such as 180 or 220.

The very best way to avoid wood finishers remorse is to test your finishes on wood scraps of the same wood species as your table. The keys to getting a smooth paint finish is to start with a smooth surface sand apply a primer primer allows the paint to go on more evenly and use a high quality paint and applicator. Wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth.

Sanding even lightly will remove the existing top coat and allow the new wood sealant to stick better. I show you the proper proportions. I absolutely love how this table looks like a new piece of furniture in my home.

See below for a shopping list tools a. Liberally apply wood stain to the surface using a paintbrush or clean cotton cloth. If you want to get good as sanding wood sand a lot of epoxy.

On soft woods such as Pine Aspen or Alder sand first with 120 and finish with 220. A good paint and a good brush will allow the paint to level out as it dries to give a smooth finish even without a sprayer. Wipe off all the excess stain with a dry cloth.

Gently stirnever shakea can of polyurethane varnish. Apply a wood conditioner according to the directions on the package. Sand the oily surface applying light pressure with only your fingertips in the direction of the woods grain.

This is true for solid wood tables but is accentuated even more with wood and epoxy tables. Wood-finishing expert Bruce Johnson shares his secrets for applying a professional-quality stain and varnish finish. Even if you have bare wood sanding a little bit will help to open up the wood surface to best absorb the new sealant.

For a natural-wood look apply multiple coats of exterior spar varnish that contains added UV blockers. If your table is raw wood you will probably want to use a primer before you paint. Sanding lighter or harder or using different grits will change the look of any finish you apply.

Fold a piece of 400 or finer sandpaper into a small square. Sand the table beginning with the coarsest-grit sandpaper 100 grit and sanding in the direction of the wood grain. Spar varnish produces a built-up finish that provides more protection than oil.

Prepare by sanding The first step is to sand your piece of furniture. Stir the stain well then use a clean cloth to rub the stain into the wood in a circular motion. Where a varnish like finish will cover up a lot of sanding flaws with a thick clearcoat.

Wipe the surface of the entire table using the tack cloth. Apply a small amount of lemon oil mineral oil or baby oil to the dried surface as a lubricant. Next sand the table with the 150-grit paper and finish by sanding with the 220-grit paper.

Sand the scraps in exactly the same way you sand the table. Put on rubber gloves and open a can of oil-based penetrating stain. I elected to skip this step because I was not worried about having a perfect finish.

The downside is that it also lets you see every sanding flaw. Using a primer will seal the wood and help your paint adhere better to the wood. Since paint blocks UV rays better than a clear finish your best bet is to apply a quality exterior primer topped by a exterior latex or oil-based paint.

Wait 8 hours or if necessary overnight for the stain to thoroughly dry.

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